Here's a brief look at what you're in for:
And the whole story is...:
Pip Abrigo is an admittedly unlikely character for running a beef company, but he hung up his Broadway dancing shoes and started singing a different tune after he and his wife began a family. Having children made him consider more carefully how chemicals and hormones in foods they ate affected their health, and awakened Abrigo's passion for public health issues. In November of 2008, his concern prompted him to become involved in increasing the availability of higher-quality foods. As a co-founder of healthyandliving.org, Abrigo helps provide healthier, grass-fed beef products by acting as an intermediary between consumers and community supported ranchers in a practice nicknamed cow pooling.
Whole Foods, Trader Joes, and smaller, luxury food markets, which have become extremely successful in the United States, center on providing healthier organic, sustainable, non-endangered foods to their customers. Some restaurants have started serving only sustainably or organically produced. But passionate individuals have taken their beef with supermarket beef to a greater level, uniting in cow pooling rings. Will this become the American norm?
GETTING INTO THE COW
POOLING LANE:
Cow pooling has been popping up on lifestyle and social networking sites, as well as in blogs and traditional publications. The term cow pooling, describes the modern trend of sharing a cow purchased directly from a rancher. Developing a relationship with the rancher or liaison helps consumers to understand where their meat is coming from.
The process of cow pooling, from ranch to table, begins when a grass-fed beef supplier, normally a small, family-owned ranch, receives an order from a group of people often represented by a coordinator. Most often, buyers receive beef packages directly from a USDA-certified processing house, or the rancher's facility.
Some participate because this food source gives cattle the best quality of life. Grain and other alternative food sources not naturally digestible by cows produce gas, which causes the animals pain. Others cow pool with their money because it lowers product and shipping costs. However, while cow pooling may offer a cheaper solution than grass-fed beef in the supermarket, the price is still significantly higher than conventional beef. But Abrigo said, "Customers come mainly because they know what healthy meat can bring to their lives."
Beth Griffiths has worn several hats in the culinary field. After graduating from culinary school she was employed as a cheese monger, butcher, fish monger, wine distributor, wine merchant, and in every imaginable restaurant position. Now that she serves as director of marketing and communications for Real Food Daily, a restaurant centered on organic, vegetarian cuisine, Griffiths said that she sees how eating purer food impacts people's health and well-being. "Having worked in restaurants and food establishments that rely on a lot of butter and meat-driven products versus having worked in vegan restaurants, you can definitely see a difference." When speaking of her own eating preferences, Griffiths said, "I don't eat processed foods... eating colors found in nature is a pretty good rule of thumb."
Research shows that highly processed meats, like hot dogs, pose the greatest cancer and heart disease health risks. Large agricultural businesses house cattle in feedlots in order to fatten the animals. They do this using growth hormones 80 percent of the time, and through food substances other than natural grass, including at times other animal byproducts. Because the living situation is tight, antibiotics protect the animals from diseases that breed on the build-up of manure.
But, in grass-fed beef, there is no color added; No synthetic growth hormones and antibiotics are allowed. Grass-fed classification requires that the animal maintain a 99 percent or higher diet of grass, although it may receive mineral and vitamin supplementation. Grass-fed beef has higher protein and omega-3 fatty acid content. It is also leaner than corn-fed beef.
Abrigo's partner ranch, Dave Reynold's Ranch, ensures that cattle to go to pasture for 100 percent of their development. This is an important distinction because a rancher's claim that cattle are grass-fed is misleading if cattle spent time on a feedlot because they may have consumed other products mixed with the grass. He contends pasture grazing reduces cows' stress, which enables better beef.
Grass-fed beef, because of a higher iron count, tends to have a gamier, more metallic flavor than conventional beef. Griffiths said, "If you're looking for a pure flavor and a more traditional heritage style of beef, then go with grass fed beef as opposed to choosing the traditional, corn-fed beef, which through the industrial farming industry has become this bland, overly fatty, overly rich product that doesn't necessarily reflect the true nature of the beef itself." One poster to a food forum from the site Craigslist said, "The steaks do taste noticeably better...but I find the fat to be a little gamey, which gives the hamburger a distinctive taste."
THE BEEF WITH THIS
BEEF:
Perhaps online forum poster Texswife was wise when she commented, "If I were to cow pool, I would do it with strangers and not friends. It seems someone always gets their nose out of joint when things get divided." However, when going through an intermediary, like Abrigo, customers avoid fighting over cuts because they cannot choose. Abrigo said there has to be a standardized method of dividing the meat because it is cost and resource prohibitive to allow customers to select their cuts of meat. But, a one-size-fits-all solution does not necessarily leave all consumers happy.
As the cheeky name indicates, buying beef through cow pooling requires the same patience and added time for receiving meat as driving to a destination in the slow lane would. After a customer purchases the cow, there is no way of precisely determining the timeframe until the cow is ready for slaughter.
Customers must also wait their turn until a cow is available. Grass-fed cattle cannot ingest steroids, hormones, antibiotics, or grain to inflate and fatten more quickly than it would naturally develop, and because they require pasture, ranchers cannot house nearly as many animals on the land as a feedlot would. At Heirloom Country Farms, another sustainable cow pooling supplier, Katharine Lune said, "We wish we had 10 times the volume ability, but we're getting there." Then, the meat must be shipped, delivered or picked up.
If the ranch does not package the meat like Abrigo's partner ranch does, customers will encounter the added time of having the side or quarter of the animal butchered themselves. Online forum poster Gassygal said, "My butcher had no idea when I was going to get the beef. Turned out it took a month and a half including aging." As a result, customers complained that a large window for receiving the meat can be frustrating.
Once the beef does arrive, customers must freeze it until it can be used, which may affect both taste and tenderness, in order to keep it from rotting. Abrigo's cow poolers, for example, receive 21 standard cuts in each package, which most customers would not be able to consume fresh. Kevin Thom, a Canadian citizen interested in the practice, said that he didn't mind. "As long as the beef was properly prepared, vacuum sealed and frozen, it should be fine," Thom said, not taking issue with the space required to store a bulk quantity of beef. "If I were to get a large order like that, I'd just keep it in a chest freezer," Thom said. However, for city dwellers, accustomed to smaller living spaces, storage is more of an issue.
Price is a significant detriment to sales across the grass-fed market, regardless of cow pooling or store purchases. Online forum poster Gassygal said, "One problem is it is hard to budget for, could be $500 could be $1000 for a quarter, because you don't know until your cow is processed." In a store, the average price of grass-fed beef per pound is between $8 and $25, depending on the cut, without the cost of shipping. Abrigo's share packages contain about 10 lbs. of beef for $10.60, including shipping. But, for those who cannot afford these prices, there is little in the way of options.
While beef raised by sustainable ranchers improves upon most environmental issues, this practice has received negative press for methane production and the carbon footprint of shipping food. In the long run, Abrigo said, "That's why local operation is a must." Heirloom Country Farms does operate locally only, and will not ship to consumers, in order to reduce their footprint. But, Griffiths said, "The truth of the matter is that eating meat and dairy is so unsustainable so that at that point if you're going to start talking about food miles, get a biodiesel truck, because really the impact comes from eating beef and eating dairy."
PASSION ACROSS THE
MESSAGE BOARD:
"Grass-fed beef has more passionate and philosophically dedicated individuals making that commitment...so you have people who aren't integrating the unsustainable practices that are taking over the main stream corn fed beef industry," Griffiths said.
And in some cases, that passion should not be underestimated. Members of the food forum on the community website Craigslist demonstrated comprehensive knowledge on and fervor for cow pooling. Whether interested in the practice for environmental or health reasons--or foodie bragging rights--those that posted inquiries on the subject evoked both positive and negative comments over the conversation threads. The tone of language used quickly escalated in strength, with posters displaying anger and urging others to become more educated before making assumptions about either grass-fed or conventional beef. Debate about the practice eventually became so heated that profanity and personal insults replaced the information sharing that had initiated the string of conversation.
HOW SUSTAINABLE WILL
SUSTAINABLE RANCHING PROVE?
Only Abrigo indicated optimism that the movement could grow beyond the passionate contingent to become a force for change within the industry. "Resetting the consumer mindset poses the greatest challenge," Abrigo said. He hopes that better education on the social, environmental and health benefits around this type of beef will be incentive enough for consumers to break from their normal buying patterns and opt for the less traditional, direct-from-ranch purchase style and propagate user demand in the years to come.
Consumers like Thom had not yet tried grass-fed beef, but after learning about the dairy cow pooling, he educated himself on the difference between grass-fed and conventional beef. Thom said, "It appeals to me because it seems cleaner and more natural than industrially farmed beef." However, deep discounts advertised on rancher websites are evidence of how the recessed economy has made it challenging for them to find customers willing to pay the premium price for sustainably raised beef.
Part of what keeps the price of beef high is that small, family-owned sustainable ranching operations do not receive government subsidies. Federal money is divvied up among large corporate agriculture companies. Even with the elevated price, Abrigo's partner, Dave Reynolds Ranch, makes only about $1.50 profit per pound after subtracting all costs of raising the cattle. "The only way to solve these issues is for the federal government to step in and financially support the movement like they support the big giant agribusinesses," Abrigo said.
Abrigo said that the U.S. beef industry is so powerful that he does not envision cow pooling and other sustainable agriculture practices overtaking mainstream companies' market share anytime soon. Abrigo is also concerned that special interest groups will apply pressure on the USDA to impose regulations that would make it difficult for sustainable farmers and ranchers to stay in business.
Griffiths agreed that money should
be diverted away from large industrialized farms. "It's absolutely investing
tax payer dollars in an unsustainable practice that means our tax money is
going to the degradation of America's farm land, and it's a shame," Griffiths
said. "It makes it so that you can buy a 99 cent hamburger at McDonalds, but I
don't know that that's necessarily the direction that we should be moving in."
However, Griffiths indicated that the government-farming relationship was getting better. "The FDA is making huge movements to support farmers markets across the country--they're accepting food stamps now. I mean that's a big step in the right direction," Griffiths said. "But without any assistance from the government there's really no way to make it cost less because their cost of production really is higher. If our national priority was to make it easier for sustainable farmers to continue their practices then maybe they could pass those savings on."
Abrigo maintained that the only way to send a message to cattle growers and effect significant change in the meat industry is through consumer demand. But, Griffiths said that it comes down to a chicken and egg problem of whether demand or supply will come first. Griffiths said, "The only way this will happen is for consumers to get out there and say this is a product that we want, that we will support our preferences with our dollar, and will support with our purchases the sustainable farming practices." Right now, with the recessed economy, finding consumers willing to support the cost is a tough for ranchers.
But, there is little opportunity to support these products at the supermarket, as grass-fed beef has limited availability in grocery stores. Whole Foods public relations representative Brenda Lynch said that the grocery chain was not a good source to speak about how the cow pooling movement would affect the health food meat industry and declined to comment on their grass-fed beef offering. Vons and Trader Joe's markets also declined to comment. The fact that the trend seems not to have reached the radar of larger supermarket chains, even those that pride themselves for offering healthier food alternatives, indicates that the direct-to-consumer organic beef market is not yet a threat to conventional store sales.
In actuality, most consumers are not ready to try cow pooling, and will continue purchase the cheaper, readily available conventional beef. Louis Friedel said that he would never try cow pooling. "I believe in the free market's ability to provide me with the best quality meat at the best price and I am extremely confident that the net result of cow pooling would be an increased cost to the end consumer for what amounts to equal quality or more likely inferior quality meat," Friedel said. He is not afraid of hormone or antibiotic use. Friedel does not believe in organic meats or produce and is unsure of the purported benefits of grass-fed beef.
Even if the practice does not become widespread, it will likely continue as long as ranchers are willing to sell to consumers. "I think that there will remain a group of people who are interested in good food and knowing where it comes from. They'll always be interested in going the extra mile to get what they want," Thom said.
"These systems are a great opportunity to support farmers in a way that has really been lost by most of our society, most of our consumers today," Griffiths said.
Abrigo simply hopes to leave his daughters with a healthier food supply than the one he inherited.
